Instead of spending Christmas break in the United States I spent it in Germany with good ole Sarah! It hurt a little being away from home and family, but I was having a unique experience I might not get to have again. Our trip started on the 21st of December. The places we went to were Frankfurt, Nürnberg, Fürth, München, Oberammergau, and Fussen.
Day 1 had us landing super late on Dec 21, in Frankfurt. So, we pretty much just went to bed when we got there. We woke up rather early because our bus to Nürnberg was late that night. We started the day in the Römberg, or the Old Town, which is where the Christmas Markets were. We signed up for a bus tour since we did not know much about the town, but that was not until 11:00. So, we had some time to kill! There was a big iron bridge called the Eiserner Steg and it was covered in love locks. The best part was the views. On the other side of the bridge, though, was a small flea market that reminded me of El Rastro but shittier haha. As well as quite overpriced… After that, we started to make our to the bus tour, but it took us through the Christmas Market. It just was not open yet or at least it was just starting to open at 10:00 AM. We were quite to the bus tour so we just hung out around the Christmas Markets until we got to leave. We had the famed Glühwein, forewarning that this is was the start of a gigantic Glühwein snowball, and the Frankfurt traditional Apfelwein. It came time for the bus tour and we got to sit in the very front at the top! Best seats in the house… It turned out to be quite informative and gave us a better grasp of what Frankfurt is.
Next up was St. Bartholomew’s Church! This is also know as the Frankfurt Cathedral. The inside was pretty closed off but Sarah and I went to the tippy top. That, my friends, was awesome. It was a rather tight plaaaaace at the top, but wonderful sights from every side. I was also quite close to the spires at the top which does not always happen at cathedrals. I was really able to take in/understand the architectural designs and decorations put on them. Church time was over and it was time to head over for some German brews! Sarah and I went to a quaint little micro brewery called BrauStil. They had some of the most interesting flavours but, unfortunately, they were not the most either. Towards the end the day, we stopped by the Goethe House which was historically and musically thrilling! Ended the evening with some shared food at another brewery and passed by the Eurocenter Bank? I believe? Where, apparently, the euro was invented!
Now, we had to get on a train for Nürnberg that night. We stayed roughly 10 minutes form the medieval Old Town and I do not think I would have loved to be anywhere else. Sarah and I found a great place to get breakfast as you can clearly seeeee.
After this, Sarah and I went to the Germanisches National Museum, which was deceptively larger than it looks. We had roughly an hour so we truly sped through the place, but I took pictures of some of my faves.
After running though part of the city, we made it to the center where our walking tour would be starting. We were right at the Christmas Markets where you can clearly see The Beautiful Fountain and Frauenkirche, the church. The Beautiful Fountain was originally destined to be the top spire or steeple but was deemed too beautiful. I agree.
I enjoy tours that are historically and culturally informative rather than extremely touristic. And then this one was pretty good:) It took us to the Nürnberg Castle which has 3 separate sections of ownership. 1 for the Emperor, 1 for the People, and 1 for the Duke. These are just a couple pictures of the estate.
At one point, we started to talk about a man named Albrecht Dürer. A painter and teacher, among other things. We also found out that below the Dürer memorial statue was the entrance to the rock cellars underground where beer was brewed. I will get to this later, trust me…
NEXT…. was a real treat.. They had a freakin toy museum in Germany. This covered all kinds of toys and toy companies inside. A true reliving moment of childhood. There were 3 main highlights for me. The first was this fantastic tiny train track…world….station…thing.. So cool to watch!
The next one was this tiny little piano Sarah and I played on in the children’s play section. Yes.
The last one I do not have a picture of. There were spots in the museum that had 3rd Reich themed toys and action figures. They had Nazi memorabilia toys and SS action figures, too. It was intriguing to see. We left the toy museum to make our to the Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds. This should truly be on your list of things to see and you will want to block out hourssss for it, if I am honest. We started out tour at 4:00 PM and we were there so long they ended up kicking us all out at 6:00 PM, which was the closing time. The only problem was we were probably only 60% of the way before we had to speed things up. It was just an arsenal of information. All great information, too. The entire thing was convicting and made me a more aware person, looking through the German perspective. The building itself had a pretty great facade but were preserving other parts of the building.
Next, we spent mosssst of the evening at the Christmas Markets! I will say, of all the christmats markets, Nürnberg’s markets were my favorite. That night I purchased a cute little music ornament:)
I think we ended walking through the entire market, stopping at dozens upon dozens of booths. We had Kartoffel something something which were these little fried potato patties with onions and cheese. It came with this amazing garlic spread and apple sauce. Surprisingly tasty… Brautwurst was everywherrrre at the market as well. They were usually 3 little weenies in a bun and they had a plethora of sauces to put on them. Even an option with sauerkraut. We had soooooo much Glühwein, but the night was still young!
The last thing we did was stop by, apparently, the greatest brewery in Nürnberg (I strongly agreed with this). Hausbrauerei Alstadt or Alstadt Brewery House!!! They had Helles beers, Radlers, and, my fav, Rotbier. Rotbier followed the recipe of the beer that was drunk hundreds of years ago in the city.
Next thing ya know, the day is over. So, next morning it is Christmas mind you! This day was not as eventful, but loaded with memories:) Sarah and I were eyeballing some coffee shop chain around the area called Brown’s. Probably the fanciest coffee shop I have ever been to. In any case, it was a pretty darn good coffee shop. Next, I had my heart set on a stein mug showcasing the locations around Nürnberg that we visited and learned about:) The lady was offering free engravings with stein purchases so it was even more exciting. The entire Germany trip kept reminding me of my father and made me think how much he would love the place. All kinds of things we liked and talked about together were there. So, I had his name and his birth and death dates engraved on it. Dare I say this was my favorite gift I have got myself.
Now. Back to the rock cellars. Come to find out, the rock cellar has tours and there happened to be one on Christmas Eve yayyyyy! This tour is now of my most favorite tours in general except for one thing. The tour was in German, but there were English audioguides. This was a little difficult but definitely glad they had them. Difficult as in the guide spoke German while we were trying to listen to our audioguides.
Here are some of the walkways and such in the cellars. I learned to much about the cellars and the cultural lifestyle entailing beer there in Nürnberg. They built these cellars underground to control the temperatures when the beer was aging and for storage. Many brewers also had their own rock cellars. However, there was more to these rock cellars than beer. During WWII, they turned the cellars into air raid bunkers. They connected many of the different cellars as to provide safer routes and escape routes. Nürnberg knew they were to be bombed so they also used the cellars to store relics and stained glass windows from churches and other things of that nature. 90% of Nürnberg was actually destroyed from air raids in WWII. A phrase I heard way too often when learning about the city or visiting iconic locations was, “This was destroyed in WWII”. This was quite hard to take in… Again, experiencing or learning from the German perspective. I took many notes from the tour, as well as others, and I think I will just paste those at the bottom… there was a lot of information. So, after the tour inside the cellars, we got to see a little from the Alstadt Brewery which has their own beer barrels in the rock cellars. Pictured here are all of their whiskey branch’s barrels that are currently in their aging process. The barrels were pretty cool as they had names and symbols and signs from however the customer wanted and then the date from which is started aging. Very very cool. The last cool thing I learned from the tour was that a long ago, households who had a 6 pointed star (they would not say Star of David) above their door, meant they sold beer there.
And THEN the tour stub came with a euro off coupon at the brewery! So, WE HAD MORE BEER!!!
By chance, Sarah and I happened to wander into a Christmas Eve Service at St. Sebald church (Check out my notes for St. Sebald, quite interesting). We went to see what time they had a service and it was starting in, like, 2 minutes. We went inside but had pretty terrible seats haha. One of the giant support columns was right in our way, but that was maybe fair due to our timing. The service had a bunch of children singing German Christmas songs and hymns. It was absolutely wonderful. They even had the sheet music printed in the programs! It was nice to try and sightread along, but the German was sometimes difficult to dictate. It was fun because of the acoustical space we are in. Just phenomenal.
After this service was over, Sarah and I made a short trip to a little town called, Fürth. It was rather uneventful because it was Christmas Eve, but it was a pleasant and peaceful walk through the town. This was probably the most exciting thing we saw there besides playing on a children’s playground hahahaha.
We spent probablyyyyy 2 hours in Fürth and headed back to Nürnberg for a late night Christmas Eve Service at the St. Lorenz church. This one a little different because we could actually see things haha. We were 30 minutes early but it was still packed! Sarah and I even had to stand in the back this time. This service was fun to be a part of except for the sermon. I did not really catch onto much there except words I learned from vocal repertoire or Christmas words. The music was even better here with an adult choir. Stille Nacht stole my heart. I hope I keep that memory for a while…
After the service, we needed to eat dinner but much of the city was closed for Christmas Eve. However, there was a pizza shop open haha. Sarah and I ended up splitting a whole cheese pizza and we watched National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation:)) One of my favs. It was a fantastic end to a wonderful Christmas Eve!
The next day we started for Frauenkirche for the Christmas Day Service. I have a tidbit about this in my notes I will post, but I will mention a little. This church is interesting because Bavaria is largely Protestant. However, right in the center of Nürnberg is a Catholic church, Frauenkirche. It was just intriguing. So, the service was one I was not particularly used to. Besides the German, of course.
This time Sarah and I had prettttttty prime seats! I believe the music at this church was the best, especially the Organ postlude.. I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to hear music in all three of these churches, though. What an experience. It just made me miss music even more.
Church service is over and out train to München is a few hours away. However, there was still time for stuff. One of which was turning this golden and black ring 3 times clockwise on The Beautiful Fountain (More on this in my notes).
Had to snag a pic;P
So, once again, remember Christmas Day has finally come! And everything is closed! Well, not everything. The Nürnberg Zoo actually happened to be open…. And it. was. wonderful. Sarah originated a newfound obsession with Manatees, which were very cool. We even got to watch them being fed. The best part was that it was not busy at all. It was so peaceful and tranquil even. There was nobody to barge past or people to hurry us along to the next exhibit. We were able to take our time. This was also earrrrrrly in the morning as well. Here are just 2 pictures I took. One is a statue that reminded me of my weenies back home.
Nürnberg time was over so we had to make our way to the bus stop. We had a terrible bus ride over with a company called Flixbus. I do not recommend. Anyways, we got to München 2 hours late on Christmas Day, but the night was young!
Alrighty. München. Beer. Bavarian food. We went to theeee Hofbräuhaus for dinner. You should look it up if you are interested… My time there Christmas Day, with Sarah, will be a fond memory I hope to never forget. It was just a giant beer hall with dozens upon dozens of long wooden benches and tables with dozens more liter steins. We had made a reservation but were extremely late so we sort of ignored that in the end haha. We wandered into the main hall and found the most perfect seats. Actually, for the entire dinner, minus the last 12 minutes or so, Sarah and I had the whole table to ourselves. Mind you, the place is extremely massive. They can maybe seat well over 1,000 people. And this is just the main beer hall…. The place had two more freakin floors, pals… Back to dinner. Sarah and I sat with a perfect view of the Bavarian folk band just to add to the night’s awesomeness. In the end, I had a liter of the Hofbräu Dunkel, Bavarian roast chicken sitting in front of me, a live Bavarian folk band, a whole table to ourselves, Sarah directly across from me smiling real big, and it was dog gone Christmas Day. It was a dream, which turned into an even better dream after another liter but of Hofbräu Helles hahahaha.
Twas a Christmas Day for the books.
I also just wanted to share this about the place. They have a vault of steins that belong to regulars at the place. I thought just thought that was amazing.
We wake up the following day in our new hostel, which has been one of the best so far, to have breakfast for €4.90… HOWEVER. It was a buffet type of thing. So, Sarah and I would make a second sandwich or something, wrap them up in napkins, and boom. Sort-of-free lunch. It did end up helping us save some money, though:) We took this day a little slower than others by really starting the day with a tour in the late morning. We had a greaaaat walking tour guide. I wrote down some goooooood information if you want to read it at the bottom! We had an extremely informative tour with a fun guide that happened to mention an Italian Baroque church that was close by. It was not on our list but we were intrigued. Of course, the church was beautiful inside but rather different. So much of the place was white. It would make anything with color really pop out.
Thennnnnn!! We found another church that was sort of in the middle of town. It was St. Peter’s Church, which had the most frustrating climb up the steps. There were just so skinny and there were too many people trying to pass by.
Juuuuust gorgeous.
We were also told from the tour about a great art museum. It was the Neue Pinakothek full of impressionist art and other art movements. Guess what else? It was free today! The guide also told us that the place would be closing for 6 years for renovations after December… Felt like we had to.. The only thing was the staff was only letting handfuls of people in every 20 minutes. So, about an hour was wasted waiting in line. This meant we only had around 50 minutes inside of the place. I have never sped so much through a museum nor turned down a free audioguide. In any case, it was still really cool:) I just happened to have a different kind of museum experience.
We were limited on time because of a beer tour we booked earlier that day. The tour itself was rather fun and we met some fun people along the way:) Our tour guide was this oldddd old German man who was not the best english speaker but did have some good information. He also seemed to have no figured out that your lips can move away from each other when you speak. Either that, or he cannot feel his lips since he never notices the spit popping out of his mouth when he talked haha.
We went around trying to break the ice with the other tour takers (there were only 6 of us) and learned about beer. We stopped at 3 different breweries! Now before I go on I just want to explain something about the breweries. They are so successful that they open restaurants themselves to help sell their beer. So, one brewery, Paulaner, had a restaurant named Paulaner im Tal for example. However, there were still breweries for the company inside the restaurant as well. So, we started at Augustiner, which was one of my favorites. This was one of their restaurants, though. Pretty much you just need to know that this brewery is one of the oldest out there. At least in Bavaria, I believe. We then moved on to the Paulaner restaurant brewhouse. This one was cool because we were able to learn some things about brewing beer and the specific brewing techniques in Bavaria. We also got to see the actual in use beer tanks! Then there were some on display sort of haha. The beer was fantastic, also.
I have left quite a bit out, but the tour had come to a close and it stopped right in front of the Hofbräuhaus! We decided to go again, but this time with our new friends!
We met Cameron, an air force man stationed in France(?), his girlfriend, Kelsey, and a lovely community college professor named Sarah! It was a fantastic evening of eating liquid bread for dinner and learning things about each other! Sarah and I can now keep up with all their traveling.
The day had ended and Sarah and I needed to get up early for a more intense day in Obberamagau and Füssen!
Sarah and I woke up, went through our breakfast and packing our “lunches”, and headed to a bus station for a tour of the Neuschwanstein Castle, Schloss Linderhof, and the little town of Obberamagau! So exciting!!! Double exciting was Cameron and Kelsey were on the same tour!
I took some notes on the Mad King Ludwig II if you want to read up! Very interesting individual in history. I am just not mentioning much here. Pretty much, he had 3 castles/palaces built during his reign.
The first two pictures are of the Schloss Linderhof where Ludwig II spent most of his time amongst the 3 palaces. I enjoyed it quite a bit because of the interior, but no pictures were allowed. Boo. The next two pictures are of the Neuschwanstein Castle in Füssen. Talk about magnificent. It was out in the middle of nowhere on the side of a mountain. It was sooooo cool. We were able to tour the inside, but again no pictures. I found out that Ludwig II had designed everything in his castles which is more impressive. We were also able to walk through some of the area in Füssen that was around the castle.
Sarah and I had some time to kill and there was supposed to be this bridge to see the back side of the castle. Apparently, this was closed. However, there was a semi blocked off road that few people were going up and coming down. Sarah and I became a part of these few people. On our way was one of the most fantastic mountain views I have seen.
PCITURE OF US WITH MOUNTAINS
We continued our walk and I mean, we ended up scaling around slipper mounds and climbed through barbed wire to get to the fantastic view of the pictures I posted a littler further up of the castle. We definitely were not supposed to be there, but man it was wonderful! Here’s a little slide show of some picks from the area ft. Sarah.
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In between the two locations, we stopped in the cute little town of Obberamagau!
Obberamagau was a little town in southeast Bavaria known for telling little stories with murals on the walls of many many buildings. I got my first knife here, but it was actually a Victorinox which is Swiss. It was covered with the Bavarian flag and the word “Bayern” meaning Bavaria in German. We had about half an hour to wonder around this town and loved it!
We then had a very peaceful bus ride back to München after a very exhausting day haha. Because we slept on the bus for a couple hours, we had energy for the evening now! We went to another brewery called Schneider-Weisse known for the more recent techniques of wheat beers. It was not as nice, but Sarah and I split a delicacy called pork knuckle…. just imagine….
Next day. This happens to be the last one y’all.. We started off heading to the Augustiner brewery! Yes, it was roughly 10:30 in the morning, but who cares. We were in Bavaria. We actually walked around the main Augustiner brewery, which was massive… absolutely massive.. and we were not allowed inside haha. BUT. There was an Augustiner brewhouse restaurant connected to it. So, Sarah and I had our share of liquid lunch where we had a variety of beers and then headed to this tiny little church called Asamkirche made as a private church by the Asam brothers, a sculptor and a painter. Very mesmerizing, especially with someone practicing the organ above us.
Now. A big goal for me being in Germany was to buy some German made knives, which proved to be a little harder than I thought. Solingen is a famous knife making city in Western Germany and I figured there would be distributions of their knives around Germany. Turns out, it was hard to find them haha. We spent some of the last day looking for some knives and some of them were quite overpriced, but these were places in the city center. FINALLY, we stumbled upon a shop called Holz-Leute that had an entire bottom floor of knives. I ended up getting 2 Hartkopf knives! One of these is supposedly an old design meant for taking to the biergartens (beer gardens) in the summertime to cut up food. They do not seem to particularly distribute to the U.S. So, this felt even cooler for me having knives not so easily attainable in America:) Very exciting stuff for me and maybe weird for you, but I do not care haha. Awesome stuff.
Next, was the cuuuuuuuutest little chocolate store for Sarah:) This woman seemed to love chocolate more than Sarah and there was a vast…….vast….. variety of chocolates. So, the end of our journey came with a train ride enjoying some delicious chocolates:)
Remember, if you want to read my notes, they will be at the very bottom!
This trip made me think a lot about my father and my family as I experienced Christmas for the first time away from all of them. It reminded me to not take simple things/situations/people/opportunities for granted. It also taught to me that happiness sometimes requires proactivity. I sometimes found myself a little sad but I was staring at gorgeous mountains with a woman I love with a beer in my hand. Just wanted to share this bit:) Be looking out for the next post!
Here is the link to all my notes from the trip! I had to write them down as people spoke or as I came across info, but you will get the gist of it! Enjoy:)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-EvmlhZN5TE020Jok2_fuRyXSvsPkJCAyYWyAm90qmY/edit?usp=sharing